Lear in Santa Maura (Lefkada)

Lear had hoped to visit Santa Maura as long ago as 1848, during his first tour of the Ionian Islands, but had been defeated by the vagaries of the shipping timetables. The nearest he came to the island was a frustrating period of quarantine. In April 1863, however, he stayed for a fortnight and travelled throughout the island, bringing home 48 drawings and some smaller “scraps”. (The Santa Maura drawings comprise numbers 21–74  in his continuously-numbered Ionian Islands series.) He selected three scenes of Santa Maura for publication in Views in the Seven Ionian Islands.

He disliked the “nasty streets” of the main town, the bad roads and the dry central valley with its “bare & ugly hills”.  As always he appreciated  flowers and olive groves, shade, running water and picturesque, if recalcitrant, livestock. His best drawings are of the lagoon and harbour and of the long vistas towards the mountains on the mainland.

Although Lear found himself out of sympathy with the British Resident he enjoyed the cheerful hospitality of the garrison.  He often felt unwell, and in spite of some good moments it seems to have been a rather sad and nostalgic time: “Much of pleasure today in beauty of scenery. Much pain also of mind”

From Lear’s Diary 11–15 April 1863

Saturday 11 April

[waiting in Paxos harbour for the boat to Santa Maura]

. . . the Steamer was eventually signalled at 3.45 [a.m.], & I was hustled into a boat. ― We had to wait a long time by the Lighthouse ― but the sea was smooth, & at 4.40 I was on board ― and there was the Suliot [Giorgio, Lear’s servant] to my gt pleasure. We were off by 5. It is now 7.15, & we are to arrive about 9.

About 9 ― anchoring close to the fort ― we got off in the Sanità boat, & were tow’d up the canal.― About 9.30. got to the Residency, & was most kindly welcomed by Baron D’E. [Sir Charles Sebright, Baron d'Everton, the British Resident]― who sent for G. & the Πράγματα [luggage], & soon gave me a bkft. At 11, I arranged things in my room ― a large one & comfortable ― & slept till 1.

Washed, & at 2 went out to Καλλιγόνι [Kalligoni] with G. ― went all over it & drew once. The scenery is very beautiful (& the road by the vast olive groves leading thither particularly so) but I could not find any point uniting the North view & the walls [of the ancient city] in one. Towards Κάλαμο [Kalamos] ― Eastward ― that part wh. I drew ― the lines are very Greek & fine; but in truth I was very sleepy & could not work well. We returned by another road, stopping at a Spring ― Μεγάλη Βρύσις [Megali Vrisi] ― & eating water cresses. The peasants here have a complete Greek or Epirote costume ― with handkerchiefs on their heads, & large Turkish braghe [breeches] ― so that both sexes look much alike.

Walked thro’ the principal street of the town ― notably indifferent ugly, & very smelly. Along the Quay ― whence the Arta & Pindus hills [on the mainland] are glorious ― but clouded. ― To the Residency & my perfectly comfortable room: half “dressed” ― and read a new pamphlet of Λασκαράτος [Andreas Laskaratos, a satirical writer from the Ionian Islands who often lampooned the Orthodox Church] till 7.30 ― when came the Baron ― & dinner.

To “do” the rest of this island? ― It will be difficult.

Sunday 12 April [Orthodox Easter Day]

Slept well. G. called me at 5, & by 5.45 ― coffee taken, we were off. Road to the Monastery of Φανερωμένη Η Παναγία [the Phaneromeni: the Virgin Mary revealed] most lovely ― glade-plain of endless olives ― green & Asphodels below, Olives ever above: sheep, goats, cows now & then: but the amount of Asphodels was wondrous. The views from the heights above ― looking North & East ― are gloriously lovely. The sea of olives spreading out really like a Claude or Turner morning view. Beyond the pale Lagune, & the slender sharp line of sandy spit which divides it from the sea, the blue waters stretch to the coast by Preveza ― & range beyond range of mountains ― sublimely delicate. At 8. we went up to the Monastery ― where were 2 burly friendly priests, then came down, & I sent G. home for his church. ― Ἐγῶ [I myself] went on to the mills on the sandspit, but got nothing for my pains but the beautiful walk.

The peasants are most picturesque here, & I wish I could see a festa. (As I sat drawing above the monastery, many passed, & several insisted on kissing G. & me ― saying Χριστός ανέστη [Christ is risen] ― to which one had to say ― Ἀληθῶς ἀνέστη [He is risen indeed]). ― It is now 9.30 ― & I go homeward.

Left a note at Βαλαωρίτη [member of a prominent local family, perhaps the poet and politician Aristotelis Valaoritis]: poked about: fidgetted [sic]: read &c. till 4 ― walking once as far as the ferry. The Baron came out at 4.30, & we walked to Καλλιγόνι, of which I must get some drawing. We came back by 6.20. Dinner at 7 ― very good & pleasant.

Monday 13 April

Did not sleep very well, yet G. calling me at 5, I riz [rose], & after coffee, 5.40 set off. Road up to Φανερωμένη [Phaneromeni], & drew more than once, but the sheep & goats left their places, & the sun was blazing & I could not get on well. Διότι, ἀποφάσισα [and so, I decided] to go up, & so we went to the top of the hill, whence the views are very grand & wide ― & so thence by a flat plain of upland, to cultivated olive & wheat grounds, & flax: & the village Τζουκαλάδες [Tsoukalades] ― extending aloof. Began to descend ― hard limestone road ― rolly stones ― great expanse of sea, Παξοῦς & Κέρκυρα [Paxos & Corfu].

Descend: road narrower, worse, & more unpleasant ― a new half-formed road running along the coast ― very high above the sea. Pinus maritima, & beautiful bits of fierce coast cliff ― hardly stayed torrents of stone ― Overhanging pines like the Scyronian rock road [a cliff road in Attica], & an immense horizon of sea. Bye & bye, a promontory, & the village of Α. Νικήτας, ― but, all things duly considered, I think it is better to give up going down there ― vû the long hot beach, ― the long pull up again, & the apparently uninteresting character of the village. So I toiled back again painfully, drawing the road scene once, & then by 10 reached the upper plateau of Τζουκαλάδες. Goodlooking priest passed ― with mule & carpets: told him to send some specimens of carpetry to the Residency. G. & I lunched below a young olive tree gratefully shading: ― lamb ― pigeon ― & Marsala. Afterwards drew the Pindus mountain outline ― & at 12.20 prepare to go. Πηγαίνωμεν [We go].

 But after a while, a boy whom we had asked for water ― comes running with a bottle of wine ― for wh. I give him 3 pence, & 3^d for himself ― whereon he says, “Κόπος πολὺ, δώσετε ἂλλα δύω ἤ τέσσαρα ὄβολι εἰς τοῦτο τὸ παιδί” [It was a lot of work; give this child another two or four obols] ― at which I kick, & leave him disgusted. I sit now ― on a height above the plain & salini [salt pans]― (which spoil the view), & all the dark blue waters by Actium, with the clear snowy range of mountains beyond, & the blue vault above. Impossible is it to see more loveliness at once. ― 1. P.M. ― We went to the Convent, as they had begged me ― & I had promised to do yesterday. The Ἡγούμενος [Abbot] of this Φανερωμένη [Phaneromeni] ― is a gentlemanly & agreeable man, ― as far as I could see ― sole tenant of the place ― except a fat Καλόγερος [monk]. They gave me & G. a limonata each, & at 3 or thereabout ― 3.30 perhaps ― we went down the hill, where I drew by degrees ― & finished drawings already began. But the wonderful flat cushion plain of olives loses half or more of its beauty toward sunset. G. is always quiet & attentive: ― & ἔτσι [so] we reached the Residency at 6.30. 

Bother Residencies; I am writing now at 10. P.M. No help can I get from the Baron ― who promised me that & a note to the Fort, but neither appear. At times I half think he does not wish me to see the Island, as when on my asking if Misses Irby & MacKenzie [Paulina Irby and Georgina Muir-Mackenzie, writers on Balkan subjects] were about to write of S^ta. Maura, ― “I would not let them” said he. “I would not allow them. It is not fair to go poking into every corner of a place for the sake of publishing.” I wait to see his further ways ― but I will see the whole Island ― yea, even if I have to write to C.F. [Lear’s friend Chichester Fortescue, then Under Secretary of State for the Colonies] to get me a distinct order from the D. of N. [the Duke of Newcastle, Secretary for the Colonies].  Bother. ― Perhaps however it is his manner & queer-slow-way only.

Much of pleasure today in beauty of scenery. Much pain also of mind.

Tuesday 14 April

Did not sleep very well. Rose before 5. Found that the Baron had written a letter to the Commandant of the Fort ― Capt. Teuart. Set off with G., & crossed in a Punt to the end of the Causeway ― & there drew till 8.30. There is a fevery feeling in these lagoon neighbourhoods early. Again, ― near the Fort, till 9.20 ― which spot is the best of all for a general view of the place. The Fort ― Mr. Graeme, very civil, & gave me some breakfast. The Fort is much larger & more important than it appears outside. Clean ― ramparts, ― gardens &c. &c. At breakfast, Capt. Teuart came in, & afterwards they took me round the place, ― also outside to find a view ― but on the East spit none exists. After a time drew again on the causeway till 1.30, when we went in to Lunch. There were by this time all the Fort party ― Dr. Pepin― a cheerful cove, ― Mr. Tilsit R.A. [Royal Artillery], & Mr. Hall ― besides Graeme & Teuart. Accordions ― guitars, dogs ― deer, stuffed birds: many home resources. A pleasant hour or two.

Afterwards, at 3, I set out again with George & Capt. Teuart, but found no place to sketch, ― so we walked all round the West Lagoon ― passing the little tuft of trees the Zambelli property, ― & beyond that to the end of the cliffs near the old breakwater ― where it is said St. Paul landed. After this we came back by 6.20. The Baron was out, but soon came in, & was very pleasant. Tea, omelettes, & wine ― & talk. Later came the Regent [head of municipal administration, Evángelos Tsárlados,]― & moreover the Map ― διὰ τὸ ὅπῶιον, ἐντρέπομαι [of/ for which I’m ashamed] Bed at 10.

Wednesday 15 April

Slept till 3 ― but uneasy for an hour or two. Rose at 5.15, & out by 5.55.

Went up to the hill below the Φανερωμένη, & drew various bits of rock & foreground ― much reminding me of my Early Olevano studies, when I first began to paint. Ai! ― giorni passati [days gone by]! Came back by the olives & asphodels at 10. ― Breakfast with the Baron at 10.30, & afterwards, went to call on Χενοφών Βαλαωρίτη [a local politician]: one Dr.  Μελισσινός was there: ― pleasant folk. Then to Mr. Bini ― head of police, who really explained a route for my country expedition, gave me a list of places &c. &c., & is to provide a Constable to accompany me. The Baron & Senator then came in ― & I had to look at prisons &c. &c. &c. ― & so by degrees we reached home about 2. It is now 2.30 ― & dinner is hoped for.

[I am] now 3.15. getting into a fury. Dinner was to have been at 2 originally, but there are no signs of it yet, & the Baron goes on whispering & pottering continually with the Senator ― talking ― talking ― for a whole hour. Botheration take all staying at small Govt. shops. (Roupakiá [a village with waterfalls in the South West of the island] ― Demoutzáni [probably Dimosari waterfalls], & Ἀνδροῦσσα [unidentified] are talked of as formidable passes & picturesque scenes.) 

It was nearly 4 when dinner happened ― pleasant enough ― but it was 5 before I got out, & then G. did not join me ― so I grew vexed & angry. ― Returned at 7.15 after walking up & down with the Baron, who is a good but “laborious” man. Later, M. Bini came in. But at 9.45 ― I came to bed. G. has not been near me, & the Baron supposes he went to a Παναγία [perhaps to one of the churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary], instead of coming out to me as I told him to do after dining. But I doubt that, & believe some other reason stopped the Suliot. My spirits are bad & depressed to night, & the air of this place liketh me not.

From Lear’s Diary 16–20 April 1863

Thursday 16 April 

(From the Fort, at Sunset, all the long line of Sta. Maura Hills is deep russetlike velvetty.)

Rose at 5, but had to arrange drawings for tomorrow’s journey, so did not go out before 6.20. (George had missed me last night by going through the town, to save time, instead of along the shore by the dogana, near which I was drawing on the beach.)

We crossed the strange Lagoon puntwise, & I drew on the causeway till 9. Then, went into the Fort, & George returned to the town. Breakfast with Dr. Pepin, very merry & hearty, & afterwards drew again by the Lighthouse till 1, when all the “Detachment” officers joined me, ― a merry set. Luncheon, & a long rest, ― guitar, albums, ‘Leech’ [a Punch cartoonist] &c. &c. till 4. A very friendly-united lot. Then a walk on the “front spit,” to Zambelli’s property ― w[h]ere was a Contadino the guardian of those properties. 

Back by 6: & at 7. dinner, ― good rough cheer, much beer & laughter, & after that, an hour or so upstairs. (Dogs ― Nelson, Grouse, Malaga, Tip, Ju, Nan, & Shot.) At 10, came away, Teuart seeing me into the boat goodnaturedly. (Owe a shilling to their boatman.) Sate half an hour with the baron, & hear from George that he has a man & mule ready for tomorrow. Bed at 11.15. ― Day fine ― but at sunset, threatening. Storms in Albania, but it cleared, & the still Lagoon was starlit.

Friday 17 April

Fine but very hot. Mountains clouded ― all, & dim.

Rose at 5 ― none the better for the air of Sta. Maura, nor for the dinner, lunch, & breakfast of yesterday. ― It was 7.30, before I got away, ― a mule & muleteer, ― G. & I, & a Policeman, ― along the road to beyond Chicklamboo church [Lear’s comic version of  Agios Charalambos, the cathedral of Santa Maura], after which we turned inward by a broad rising road ― winding above the gt. olive plain. The views hence are of the very best of the North of the island, but too cloudy to draw, so I wander on, ― & with weary steps too ― for I was not very well, & moreover the Policeman would go up difficult bypaths, & short cuts.

At 9.30 we came to the top & the roads & scenery became atrocious. A great basin below high Mountains ― a little lake below ― & all the rest stone, worked out into vine terraces with admirable industry & ugly effect ― tho’ of course had the year been more advanced the vines would have been prettier. I & G. were both reminded of the 5 Terre country close to Spezzia. Neither the sight of the Sphakiotes nor of Καρυά [Karya]― (the largest village in the Island,) ― gave me the least wish to visit them: ― they are in 6 or 8 Maxalades or detached lots of houses, after the fashion of Greekdom in general, ― but the whole aspect of the great valley was hideously dry & frightful. Nevertheless there were two views rather grand & desertlike, but I could not draw owing to the clouded hills ― the forms of which were hidden. The fatigue of the roads was great, but on passing the Monastery of Ἅ . Ιωάννης about 11.20 ― I decided not to stop there ― so we went on & reached the village of Ἀλέξανδρος & the Monty. of Α. Γεώργιος about 11.40.

A poor place, an old owl, or hawklike Ηγούμενος [Abbot] ― with a wonderful head of hair ― & one blind Καλόγερος[Monk]. But there was a couple of clean rooms. Wine ― ἔτσι κ’ ἔτσι, coarse  & black ― so I drank too much water ― & later ― had some cold mutton & onion, which last disagreed with me. So I went to lie down, feeling ill & feverish, ― & lo! XX4 [four seizures?]― after which I slept, & indeed at 4 rose better, though far from well. The policeman sticks to me as a burr ― evidently ordered so to do: but I believe there was no better mode of progress. Yet if I see nothing more beautiful than what I have seen today, I shall regret the journey. The small level, or comparatively level where the villages of the 2^nd district are, is somewhat less hideous than that of Καρυά, yet wholly undrawable.

At 4.45 ― (the Policeman being asleep) I & G. escaped, & began to go up the hill behind the monastery ― unluckily obliquely ― so we got never the nearer, ― but threaded the path among & over vast blocks of stone below the great hill of Scarus [Skaros]: at the top ― goats & a goatherd were there, we saw a bit of misty purple Etolia & the gray sea] ― & returning killed a venomous snake. ― At the monastery ― the policeman wished to go up the high hill ― & I half began to do so ― but returned for it was too late.

Having washed, & written some of this, G. brought αυγὰ τηγανισμένα [fried eggs] & rice al burro ― both good: he is a cheerful capital man. He says the “buco” when the priests eat is “un orrore ―” [the hole where the priests eat is disgusting] & the elder stirred up the tripe in water with his hand ― so that απ’ άσπρ’ ἒγινε μαῦρον [from white it turned black] ― so that G. declined the food.

Saturday 18 April

[There are two accounts of this day: the normal diary entry and a set of “Duplicate notes” added on the diary page for Thursday 16 April. I have followed the main account, with occasional interpolations from the duplicate notes where they provide a clearer or more vivid  narrative.]

Fine, but cloudy ― hot ― but air better than χθὲς [yesterday]. ― Slept pretty well, “putty” well ― as Baron D’E. would say. Rose at 5 ― & by a little before 6 we were off. The old bewiggled Ἡγούμενος declared he would take nothing, but, τέλος πάντων [anyway] took 2/6. . . . Horrible ugly valley & frightful roads. Less vines even than before: how bare & ugly are these hills!! ― reminding me of C[olle] di Penne in the Abruzzi. Hideously perpetual, dry-wrinkled, spasmy chasmy valley, full of ugly gullies.

About 7 we left the road & went up to Π. Εὐαγγελίστα Κόκκινη Εκκλησιά [the Red Church, dedicated to the Annunciation], a monastery like Α. Γεωργίου [Aghios Georgios], but there was a lively Ἡγούμενος, who was angry at my proposal to depart εὐθὺς [immediately] . . .  He gave me a bottle of wine, & after wholesale compliments, on again. Who can know what these people mean, if one travels with a policeman? ― We came at length, at 8 below high rocks to the left, Σκάρος [Skaros], to get out of this horrid upper level, & down to the plain . . . Heavy stony road as yet. Partridges call ― gradually olives, thinly planted, begin, & we get to Fontana Pasha at 9, a very common orange garden, but wholly destitute of drawability: so I resolve to go on. And we go along the flat ground, by ditches, & the torrent of Δημουτζάνι [Dimosari]  (which the Baron extolled, but I see nothing in at all) & then by degrees at 11 come to the head of the Port of Βλιχῶ ― where there are 2 or 3 dismal houses.

We pass the best, & go on to the Govt. collector or whatnot, whose house is filthy, so I return to the other with a shady tiled portico, a prevalent pig & the master, one Χρήστος Παπακωστόπουλος, makes me a mattress on trestles outside, & I get some lunch of cold meat, & very good wine. [now, noon, I am happily eating lunch, ― so is the pig ― & the hens, & the cat: & the swallows are twittering]. The pale blue sea ― twinkling & rippling, [shimmers & popples], of this pretty quiet dead port, is bright & pleasant, & so is the beautiful air, but the hills have mediocre forms ― & I can’t draw. 

At 1.45. after really a pleasant 2 hours ― we start, ― I am to sleep at Barba Χρήστος’s house: & at 2.30 we arrive at it, in Κατωχώρι [Katochori]― alone ― detached: clean &c.: ― a café, & we sleep. From the window where this large 2 pillowed bed is, ― nought but an olive tree can be seen: but the branches & leaves of that are enough of beauty. After some repoge & café ― riz & washed, ― the padrone having been immensely considerate of all matters. The head of Police in these parts came, & we all issued forth to see the town. Church, school, dogs, carpet-making, &c. &c. &c. ― & so after looking wise as long as I could, we all came back & sate in the padrone’s room ― where I talked bad Greek ― & “looked wise,” & examined the son ― Athanasius’s ―  writing ― till 6.30, when, holding out no longer, I retired to write this.

Sunday 19 April

Up by 5 ― & started at 5.40, taking leave of this pleasant good lot of folk. A very steep pull up the mountain above the town (which lies half-way, in a hollow, between the summit, & the level of Βλιχῶ) ― towards the top drawing a line of the village, & the harbour of Βλιχῶ &c. &c., but the Islands, tho’ somewhat better looking at such early morn, are inconceivably intractable. Passing on over an elevated hill top level leaving Φτερνό [Fterno] & Πόρος [Poros] ― the path lay through cultivated ploughed ground, or over a long tract of Σχίνος [lentisk]-covered plain, where were goats & flox.

Then came a considerable descent to the flat low ground below Μαρανδοχώρι [Marandochori]: (a second policeman who had accompanied us from Κατωχώρι [Katochori] leaving us here for Σύϐρο [Syvros] ― (this man, like many of these moutaineers ― who are all fine fellows ― was one of the finest specimens of humanity supposable.) This valley we crossed ― & an ascent to Κονδάραινα [Kondaraina] followed ― no part is anywise very interesting. 9 A.M. thence, by particularly vile paths & a steep descent to the shore of Βασιλικῆ [Vasiliki]. The morning was hot ― & I not very well ― headache & tired. I wish I could reckon on getting back to Sta. Maura on Thursday! However, the plain of Βασιλικῆ & the mountain of Σταυρωτὰ [Stavrotas] are more respectable than anything I have yet seen.

All the rest of the morning’s walk was nil, ― save some commonplace olive & cypress views below Κονδάραινα. At this place, Βασιλικῆ, so reputed to be called along of Ἀρτεμίσια  having died there [Artemisia, Queen of Halicarnassus, is said to have killed herself for love by jumping from the rock of Lefkada] ― (& the Baron mysteriously hints at knowing where her tomb is!) ― I come to the house of the Οἰκονόμος [Oikonomos] or Deputy, & rest ― arriving at 10 ― till noon. Μεταξὰ [Metaxas] is the name. There are heaps of children & already I have seen 4 B flats [bugs]. At 12.30. I join the family party of Mr. Λεωνίδα Μεταξά & “partake” of some Caddy broth & salt cheese: they seem a kindly good filthy lot as poor Ldy. Carmichael used to say. At 1, went out with G. & the Argus-like Ἀνδρέας Χωροφύλακας [Andreas the Policeman] ― & drew in 2 places ― not well ― till 4.15.  . . .  I cannot remember ever to have made so empty a journey as this Sta. Maura interior-giro ― except perhaps the first of my Thessalian tours. But thanks to God for better “aspirations” I am assuredly far less tried than I should have been some years back.

Sate ― drawing & dawdling till 5.30: the shadows ― few as they necessarily are owing to the flat nature of Σταυροτὰ are better towards sunset, & I hardly think I made the best of the view, ― there was no place ― (as usual ―) to sit where I could see best, & after G. went (to get some supper for me) the people about me hammered stones & fidgetted [sic]. (Two were from Ithaca, their boat being below in the deadly quiet port: & they want me to sail with them ― but that can’t be, tho’ it was at one time my intention to cross from here.)

Mr.  Μεταξὰ came later & walked with me on the beach ― & to see some “Hellenic” ruins, which turn out to be Roman baths or somewhat later [ruined tower-dwellings of multiple time periods]. M. says he has “served” Govt. 20 years or more: he was Sanità agent at Sta. Maura ― but was moved here to the Deputato-ship ― a rather better post: now, however he says ― they have united to that the Sanità post here ― much more work & no more pay & 7 children! He evidently groans at the idea of the change coming ― not knowing what may take place. But says little ― except praise of the Baron ― which is to be supposed.* The plain & mountain are very fine from the end of the beach, but it was too late to draw: ― altogether there is a dreamy lofty sort of melancholy αbout Βασιλικῆ.

Came back at 6, & washed, & wait for the Suliot’s dinner till 6.30. Which was as good as if G. had not been walking all day with my heavy folio ― Irish stew & rice soup.

A melancholy oriol cries ever. Sate talking with the Μεταξὰς till 8.30. ― Bed by 9.

*I found, some days later, by oversight left in the Baron’s W.C. at the Residency, the reports of my progress from Μεταξὰ ― very concise & doubtless ordered strictly. [Lear’s later diary entry, suggesting Metaxas was a government informant]. 

Monday 20 April

6.30. Dressed & ready. But we shall hardly be off just yet. ― The owl still cries. ― There is a somewhat beautiful [Lear loses the structure of his sentence here], ― now that the sun is rising on the bare Leucadean Cape, so long drawn out as a wall to the still bay ― even here. Thank God, I feel pretty well this morning, & fleapowder preserved me at night. Yet I don’t like to look forward to the work of the day ― as it must needs be hard. We start at 7.45 [perhaps 6.45? Lear’s timings this morning are inconsistent]― along the shore . . .  Steep hill on the west side of the plain: & many cattle goats & sheep ― peasants ever picturesque. Some olives, here & there. I drew Ithaca, & again higher up, with the hill of Βασιλικῆ [Vasiliki] & its port. Above the village of Α. Πέτρος [Aghios Petros] we turn off ― at 6.50 ― there are several good houses in this large village ― & at 6.45. ascend the very steep hill above it, ― the top of wh. we reach at 8.20. The view Eastward must be fine in clear weather ― unluckily it is all dim & blotted out & only the Islands appear ― the Ἐχινάδες [Echinades]: I am not in luck as to clear distances, ― on the west only sea is visible. The aspect of nature here, 8.30, is dry yellow & bare. 8.45. Immense clear hills, all vine planted but as yet with no green leaf out.

Sharp & steep descent again, & reach Αθάνι [Athani] by 9.15. (three hours and a half from Βασιλικῆ ― they said six.) Draw the village, wh. is not very hideous, ― & lies between the hills I have just crossed ― i.e. those forming the west side of the plain of Βασιλική― the long range which is the outer or west side of the island: ― then two ridges enclose a narrow valley ― & their sides are all vineyards up to a gt. height. At 10, go to the house of Τιμόθεος Ρομποτής [Timotheos Robotis] . . . Here I am received kindly ― the mother of the family a fine & nice woman. Large airy rooms ― & I am put into one small & clean where are sofas & rest. . . .  At 11.30 ― the Padrone Ρομποτής then comes ―a rough hearty peasant ― & we talk ― he only understands Greek. I tell him of Elder wine ― for there are many Elder trees; Ἀφροξυλιά ― hard by. I promise to send him a receipt [recipe] for the wine. Long talk & Lunch with the Padrone & Διδάσκαλος [teacher]. Good bread & wine: some, 23 years old magnificent. Left at 1.30 . . .

. . . We have walked fast, & I am now writing on the still hill side, on the way to Sappho’s leap. Very Greek all the scene ― Arbutus ― Σχίνος [lentisk]― Πρινάρι [holm oak] ― myrtle ― blooming Cistus & scores of other flowers: the vast tranquil moveless sea to the South & West ― the blue sky above ― nothing more. “Hateful is the dark blue sky” [Tennyson, “The Lotos-Eaters”: “Hateful is the dark-blue sky, / Vaulted o’er the dark-blue sea”]. ―  Always walking by the hill side ― the west wall of the promontory forming one side of the bay of Βασιλικῆ ― far above the vast sea. . . . Goats begin to appear ― standing as is their wont, on points of rock ― sneezing.

At 4.30 ― after passing a small cultivated level, where were a few horses & sheep, we arrive at the Monastery ― a lonely small poor place enough, but with a clean outer room made all ready. All the buildings are enclosed in a wall. Just above this wild little place, the views of Ithaca are beautiful. Men of the Monastery come & say, 5 wolves came down last night, & tho’ the dogs gave alarm, they killed 3 goats & 2 kids before the people could get out. (Ὁ Ἅγιος Νικόλαος ― Ὁ Ἡγούμενος ― Παγkράτιος) [Aghios Nikolaos Monastery; Abbot Pankratios]. I drew Ithaca, which appears quite close, before I went to the minute chamber, where I got arranged. The Παπὰς [priest] killed a kid, & supper was to take place in my room. New moon & star ― above the little church. Mass in the church. Supper, dish of liver &c. & roast kid ― beans ― cheese, & wine. ― of which I ate sparingly ―but taking one mouthful of new cheese upset me in toto, & at 8.30 ― when Παπάς Παγκράτιος & G. had gone ― “sick transit.” Odd enough ― & all the more that I have been so well all day. ―

No sleep all night ― or little: alarm of wolves, & constant row of dogs ― horses &c. &c.

X5 [5 seizures?]  

From Lear’s Diary 21–25 April 1863

Tuesday 21 April 

Rose at 5. Coffee 5.30. A horrid night, but somehow I do not get worse, & we are ready to start at 5.50. ― Rocky hill sides, & paths winding among the usual Cistus & Σχίνος [lentisk] are the order of the day. Ups & downs ― & about 7 we near the great rocks of the narrowing Λευκάδα promontory. Lower down, we cαme to gaps, whence, looking over, the cliffs are vastly fine, ― dark gray, & perpendicular from the black water, edged with foam, tho’ the sea is calm. 5 ordinary large vultures sate on a ridge of the highest edge.

By 7.30, I was at the top of the highest cliffs, where there are remains of a temple ― to the east, the cliff covered with wide cedar, Πρινάρι [holm oak], &c. ― slopes to the sea. Ithaca & Κεφαλονιά seem close by, & 3 steamers are immediately below. ― Farther on is the last cliff ― the real Salto di Saffo, where the terraces & portions of wall of a large Temple still exist, ― the ground covered with innumerable bits of pottery &c. An old man of 85, who died not long ago ― (says Παπᾶς Παγκράτιος,) remembered the Temple several feet high ― with some columns standing, but the stones were displaced & rolled to the sea down the hill, & taken for building elsewhere. Piles of stones are still there ― arranged for this process. What must this spot have been when both Temples stood? Returned slowly ― a painful path ― by 11 (on the lower rocks were 2 white-headed sea eagles. At the Monastery we find Μάρκος Ρομπώτης [Markos Robotis]; he says, 3 or more deputies have left Athens to bring the Danish prince over [Prince William of Denmark was to become King George I of Greece]. Παγκράτιος is a capital kind man. He says “D’Everton, had he been governor in those times, would never have permitted “τόσα πολύτιμα πράγματα” [so many precious things] to be lost in the sea, whereby I thought he meant Sappho ― but he meant the stones of the Temple.

The indefatigable George turned out a dish of Eggs, & I hope went to sleep: I am afraid lest this journey tire him too much. With me lunched ὁ Κ.Μ. Ρομπώτης, ― a well-enough sort of youth, but I had greatly preferred the company of Π. Παγκράτιος, to whom, to retire altogether ― this new comer seems to have been a signal.* [Lear later added: “I heard afterwards that old Ρομπώτης & the priest are on ill terms”.  At 1. I shut up, to repose, having made a little memorandum of the queer little room & small church.

At 2. I call the presiding deities. Κωνσταντής ― the good honest muledriver who gives no trouble & is always ready & obliging ― & Andréa the policeman. And I find out Παγκράτιος, & give him a good penholder, & some steel pens, having nothing better to offer him for what has been real kindness. ‘It is not new’ say I ― ‘& I hope to send you a better.’ ― “Δὲν πειράζει” [it doesn’t matter] is the answer ― “δὲν θὰ σᾶς λησμονήσω”[I won’t forget you]. I also got ― with difficulty ― the little woman who laid the cloth & who sighed fearfully, ― to take 2/- but only with G.’s despotic aid, as she said Παπᾶς Π. Would be θυμωμένος [angry]. I was sorry to leave Παπᾶς Π.

So at 2 P.M. we set off ― Mr. Μ. Ρομπώτη on a gray mule, Andréa & the other policeman (he had come from Athani yesterday with us ), Κωνσταντής & 2 servants of Μ. Ρομπώτης. The only variety was in gathering clouds, thunder also ― & rain at sea. Μάρκος kept shooting right & left ― G. & I steadily walking on. G. suddenly asked ― “if that Lady” (meaning Sappho) “meant to drown herself, why did she take the trouble to go quite to the end of the promontory, when there were so many points nearer ― unless indeed she came in a boat to the point.” ― (Leaving the Monastery of Α. Νικόλα was a sort of grief to me ― Π. Παγκράτιος shook hands ὥς Ἄγγλος [like an Englishman], & seeing clouds ― said ― Ἐπιθυμῶ να ἢθελε βρέξει, μόνον νὰ σὲ κάμνη να μείνης ἐδῶ) [I wish it would rain, just so it would make you stay here].

However, at 4 ― or 4.30 it did begin to rain, but we did not get wet, & reached Romboti’s house tolerably dry. Every care was taken to give me all I wanted; & the evening passed al solito: wealthy folk ― plate & crockery &c. Dinner too heavy ― soup ― &  3 courses of fowl ― boiled stewed & roast, & 9 pigeons! Almond for dessert, & the 23 years old wine was delicious!

My last words to Παγκράτιος were, Ἐὰν ποτὲ εὑρίσκης τὰ σκουλαρίκια τῆς Βασιλίσσης ποῦ ἒκαμε τὸ πύδημα, φυλάξτε τα καλὰ διὰ ἐμέ! [ “If you ever find the earrings of the Queen who jumped, look after them well for me” [The Queen is Artemisia]. Whereat I left him holding his sides.

Wednesday 22 April

Rose at 4.50. ― Took leave of all the Ρομπώτης family. Marcos’s offer to walk some way “διὰ νὰ μὲ συντροφεύσει” [to keep me company] I thankfully declined: no greater bore than that, as they will walk by your side in the narrowest path. ― Off 5.40. All in shade. Bad roads, vineyards perpetual: day very fine. 6.50 ― I have passed the 2 Δράγανο [Dragano] villages, & a good way beyond.

7.40 ― am beyond Κομηλιό [Komilio], which village stands in a green hollow of corn, between the inner & outer range of hills on the western side of Sta. Maura; the whole indefinitely ugly ― the hills very round & bare ― all except vines. The cornland encroaches on the path, which, eaten away, slopes, & is odious. ― (Botheration chorus of all creatures, at the Monastery last night ― διὰ τοὺς λύκους) [because of the wolves]. ― 8.5 we are above Χορτάτα [Chortata] the last of the 7 Μαχαλάδες [members of a group of villages] of Διαμιλλιάρι [Diabliania: once known as the Ηνωμένες Πολιτείες, or United States, of Lefkada] ― the other 6 [sic] being Ἅ. Τεόδορος, Μανάση, Ἅ. Βασίλιος, Νικόλι & Ροπακιὰ [Ag. Theorodos, Manasi, Ag. Basilios, Nikoli & Roupakias].

As we began to cross the hideous sides of Σταυρωτά, one saw down the great λαγκάδιον [valley] as far as Ἅ. Πέτρος [A. Petros], & all but to Βασιλικῆ [Vasiliki] (spite of the Baron’s predilection no good scenery can exist there I think); with θιάκι, & Κεφ. [Ithaca and Cephalonia] beyond, & the sea & Παξοῦς [Paxos] west. Above, the odious sandy pudding hills. Κoρτάτα [Chortata] is a scattered village, with 2 or 3 bunches of Ilex trees ― good water & good air. A toil upward ensued, & at 8.50, having reached the Καινούριος δρόμος [new road] ― we were passing along the higher part of the pass or ridge, positively a desert of stones ― air good, nothing to be seen. ― 9.30 we have crossed a little flat pain, & are above Εγκλουβή [Englouvi] at a small church, Ἅ. Δονάτο [Ag. Donatos]. Beyond is the high point with a monastery ― Α. Ελία [Ag. Elias]. At 10, we are going down the vilest possible staircase road to Εγκλουβή, a closely packed large village in a hollow below the highest part of the mountains, & where, by some lights possibly, a drawing might be made. After this ― the broad public road recommences, & leads along the edge of a deep hollow ― all ugly enough, & only redeemed by the distant lot of Islands not very lovely in form, & on the farther side of which are Βαυκερή, & Πλατηύστωμα [Vafkeri and Platistoma]. All the scenes of the first day’s journey, ― Ἀλέξανδρος [Alexandros] &c. &c. lie opposite ― all wide & without interest. It is now 10.30.

Ever along the side of this hideous bare mountain, above the vast hollow valley covered with stripes of walls, & the dirty lake of Καρυά [Karya]. At 11.20 ― after a hard walk of nearly 6 hours ― we reach the large village of Καρυά, & stop at the Σταθμός [police station], where polite policemen induct one to a little room & I repose. Thus, the far worst part of the day’s journey is done in 5 & a half hours. ― 1. P.M. They bring 2 carpets, asking 8, & 8½ dollars, but letting me have them for 15 dollars the 2. Also, G. brings eggs bread cheese & wine, G. being never prevented from cooking if wanted ― by fatigue.The bread & cheese are excellent here: wine, goodish, oil not good. It is 1.30. P.M. ― so far a white day.

[An inset paragraph recalls two of Lear’s sisters, Mary and Ann, who had died in 1861.]

About this time 2 years ago, died poor Mary ― the thought of whose last hours is ever sad. But those of my dear Ann are ever dearer & dearer, & not sad at all: one might say of her that she left earth in a bright soft blaze of light, & except that I could see her no more now, there was no sorrow ― so good ― so happy.

At 2, looking out of window, I must conclude by saying that more ineffable days’ ugliness never met my eyes than in this blessed island: the barrenness would not matter, but the forms are so hideous. ― Setting off again at 2.15 ― I drew the mountains from near Σφακιότες [Sphakiotes] from 3. to 4.30., & then came the long descent from above Καθαριάkι [Kathariaki] ― a most lovely & delightful view, which must be done before I go [see drawing no. 72]. At 6.30. reached the Residency, & found the Baron as hearty as usual, & expecting the Lord High [Commissioner]. ― Washed ― & at 7.30 dined with the Baron’s tea ― & sate afterwards till 10.30. bed.

XX6 [six seizures?] 

Thursday 23 April

Rose at 5.30. At 6. G. comes, saying ― the Lord H.C. [High Commissioner of the Ionian Islands, Sir Henry Storks] is come, & off the fort. Whereon I wrote to the Baron that I am going out for the day ― (as he will too) & so we have coffee & escape. Across the Lagoon ― punty ― punty ― calm & bright, & to the Fort, where I found Teuart going to the Caradoc [the incoming ship]. Breakfast with Pepin, Hislett, & Graeme, a most cheerful lot ― a sort of united family. ― So we dawdled, ― & I made ― ὥς ἒπος ἐπεῖν [so to speak] ― 5 drawings: then lunch. Tame deer, ― ratcatching & other pastimes. Talk of Byron &c. ― & much fun & pleasantness: & at 2.30 off with G. ― leaving the kindly detachment of the 6^th.

Punty ― breezy ― punty back, & by very stinky side outskirt lanes, across to the road to Μεγάλη Βρύσις, & Καλιγόνι [Megali Vrysi & Kaligoni] ― where I drew for a time. But somehow they are not impressive ruins. Returned ― drawing twice ― by 6.15, & find Strahan [George Strahan, one of Storks’s ADCs] & Capt. Wilkinson going to the ship. The Baron also going to dine with Sir H.S. ― so I walk with him to the Dogana. Sir H. ― φαίνεται [it seems]― goes on Saty. morning, & very amicably asks me to go to Κεφαλλένια [Cephalonia] with him, ― which just suits my book. Returned to dine at 7.30 ― Signor Bini being my host. Talked Italian continually ― to avoid silence construable into ill-breeding: yet afterwards, I fear I bored him with Col. Leake [author of books on Greece, much admired by Lear].

At 10 he went, & I prepared for bed, ― but then came the Baron, with whom, ― I having re-dressed ― sate till 11.15.

Friday 24 April 

Off by 5.40, & up, by the cool shady olives to the hill above Καθαριάκι: most lovely olive woods & paths ― goats & sheep & passing peasants. Bushes of myrtle & full-blown pink Cistus in great masses. Drew 3 or 4 times. The peasants are all darkly clad ― white capotes. At 10.30 finished drawing at highest spot, & came downwards. At 12. a meagre lunch, with Giorgio, below pleasant olives. (Last drawing ― No. 74.)

Returned to Residency at 1.30. Found Baron there, & the L.H.C. about to lunch. Dressed hastily & went in to lunch. Sir H.S. occupied by a crowd of petitioners ― Baring [Evelyn Baring, an ADC of Storks, who became a close friend of Lear] giving money &c. &c. One woman was persistent & pregnant ― “Why ― ! she’s with child!” ― said Sir H. ― “I never saw her otherwise” gravely said the Baron. “They say you are always with child!” ― “She lives riotously”. Sir H. ― “Then give her a dollar to keep it up.”

2 to 4 ― packed drawings ― E. Baring with me at times, talkative & cheery. Then we followed Sir H. to the school, & inspected 68 boys. Afterwards ― escaping from a mob of petitioners ― all of us walked to the olives by Πικλαμμποῦ [another of Lear’s versions of Charalambos?], returning by the half-finished church. Baring made me laugh ― upon some official Greek translations, & other matters. Among others ― a poem written in English to the P. of Wales & Princess Alexandra ― in wh. the poet calls them, 2 Bileless doves, & a Doctor’s bill ― with this mem. “for inspecting a violated lass ― 4.4” [4 guineas?].

We all συνετρεύωμεν [accompanied] the L.H.C. to his boat, & I returned with Baron D’E. Dinner at 7.30. Sigr. Bini, & Sigr. Καλκάνη (the Senator’s brother) a very pleasant & well informed man. Came to bed at 10.

Saturday 25 April 

3 weeks out today. Cloudy ― & windy morning ― horrid to say.

Rose at 4.45 ― & packed all: finished accounts with G. & am waiting now for the Baron’s breakfast. A letter just comes ― very apropos ― from Spiro: Καραλάμπος [Spiros and Charalambos Kokali, relatives of Giorgio in Corfu] is getting quite well. 9. Breakfast, to which Strahan came. 9.40 ― off with the Baron ― through the very nasty town. ― In the Baron’s boat up the canal ― George & the luggage coming in Strahan’s boat. We sailed in the Canal ― so got to the Caradoc in no time ― & wo is me! the wind increases & already the waves are odious to look at. The Baron went off ― & endless salutations to the energetic Lord High occurred. ― We start at 10.30.

The wind & sea grew worse & worse ― & the Caradoc pitched & rolled like fury. Nor does she go over the waves, but through them ― drowning all in vast seas of spray & solid water. Awfully rough. ― Horrid sea. Sir H.S. ― Baring ― Strahan & I sate or lay in the Cabin ― the 2 ADCs rushing out now & then. As we came opposite the west side of Sta. Maura ― the storm was higher & worse ― & as we afterwards heard ― any accident to the machinery must have led to our being thrown on the cliffs. It seemed impossible ever to get to Cephalonia ― & Sir H.S. decided on going, ― if we ever got safe past the point of Sappho ― to Ithaca instead of Argostoli. ― At 2.30. we got past Sappho’s leap ― the sky & water intensely blu[e] always ― but the waves huge & awful.

After this, comparative calm ensued ― & we were even nearing Ithaca at 3.45. At 4.15 ― entering Gulf of Molo ― I remembered 1848. ― 5 to 6 ― wind very high, & even in the port of Βαθύ [Vathy] the sea was so high that no boat could come off ― & tho’ the Resident tried in a boat towed by one larger ― they were obliged to put back. So I arranged to stay ― dine ― & sleep ― & walked about with G. Strahan, whose opinion of Greex is strong. Dinner 7.30. Captn. Wilkinson is a very nice fellow. The Lord H. always most pleasant. A good deal of talk with him.

Bed at 10.30. in G.S. & E.B.’s room: nearly killed them with my theory of the old woman “Did I? belike I did then ― I thought I felt ― &c.” ― And they made me laugh as much.

One of Sir Hy.St’s ― quaintnesses.

Good Day Mrs. Flanagan Maam!
Good day then Mrs. Brady Mam!
How are you Mrs. Flanagan Mam?
I’ve got a boil Mam.
Now upon your honor?
No ― upon my ――.

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