Lear in Cerigo (Kythera)
It is an accident of history that between 1799 and 1867 Cerigo was part of the Ionian Islands; situated off the South Eastern Peloponnese, it is geographically remote from the other islands and differs from them in having Aegean as well as Italian architectural styles and cultural traditions. In May 1863 Lear stayed for a week on Cerigo, making 29 drawings and a dozen “scraps”. He lithographed one scene for Views in the Seven Ionian Islands.
Lear found a poor and rarely-visited island, prone to earthquakes and much depopulated through emigration. He barely alludes to the ancient Cythera of literature and myth. He was pleasantly surprised, however, by the fertile valleys of the interior, full of spring flowers, and the long views from the high ground: south to Crete and north to the mainland. He was intrigued by the tall women, with their baby-carriers: “peculiar long sacks, made of gorgeous-coloured carpets, slung from the shoulders”. “In each of them is a baby Cerigot―if not as quiet, at least as closely swathed and imprisoned as any crysalis”.
From Lear’s Diary 18–19 May 1863
Monday 18 May
Slept well ― come-parrot-tifly. ― Woke at 4.30 by hearing that we are off Cerigo, & to my great surprise we are landed by 5.50. ― Massey [W.J.Massey, the previous British Resident] is there to meet us ― & we go up to the castle by 6.15 or 6.20. Bulwer [Henry Bulwer, Resident 1862–64]] has a most comfortable room ready for me ― my own bed being quickly put out by G. ― & by 8 I was all arranged, dressed & washed. Breakfast with Massey, very pleasantly with Bulwer, & afterwards made a map until 12.30.― I fear, 3 days in the country must be all I can contrive here.
At 2. lunch. Massey & Bulwer. O ― bother lunch! & at 2.30. these kind people would “συντροφεύσει” [accompany] me to wherever I could draw, though I had indeed rather they had not.* They took me to a mill, but the view is not just what I wanted, yet I drew hard till 5 or 6 ― when Bulwer ― (they had happily left me in the interval,) came back, & walked up to the Castle with me, arriving at 7. Dressed, ― & dined with B. at Massey’s at 7.30. They are both extremely kind & amiable. Bed by 10.
*― Note. Augst. 2. 1863. After all I could not have hit on that spot without their aid.
Tuesday 19 May
Rose at 4: & out with G. at 4.30. The Colour of Cerigo Castle Rock, & all around is extremely red-oker-chocolate-rich. The white houses on the shore & the dark still water are fine contrasts, like Παλαιοκαστρίτζα [in Corfu]. Drew till 6.30: then again on the Rocks near the Lighthouse, getting thereby a Nollidge of the nature of the castle rox &c.
At 8–8.30, came upwards to the ground where I was yesterday, only more inland ― & drew till nearly 10. Then G. & I went to the few meagre olives nearer the town, & had lunch, which Bulwer had kindly ordered his servant to put up ―good cold mutton, 6 eggs, cheese, bread, & a bottle of most capital wine ― Smyrna Grapes ― but made here. A pleasant lunch! The Suliot as usual very quiet. It is now 11: si riposa: ― for it is a deal too hot to go upwards, albeit there is a cool nice breeze at times. This same Cerigo is far more agreable than I anticipated.
11 o’clock here, by my watch is nearly 12. ― 12.45. Πρέπει νὰ ὑπάγωμεν [we must go]: ― slowly ― slowly ― along the hill side. Slowly we go ― & now I am resting below a pine tree ― listening to the waves, break ― break ― breaking on the Sand [cf Tennyson], someday like Hastings days. After all, some quiet & beauty are left me!
It is 1.30. ― Up the long hill as far as the school, where I drew from 2.30 to 4: when Bulwer & Massey joined me. I walked some way with them, but had toothache & was tired, so at 5.30. I returned, & arranged paper &c. for tomorrow’s start into the interior of the Island, ― besides a tub & dressing. By 7. Dinner ― Massey being the 3rd. ― Slow: but I was “very weary” [cf Tennyson again]― & after dinner slept.
X4 [four seizures?]
From Lear’s Diary 20–21 May 1863
Wednesday 20 May
Rose at 4. Still neuralgic toothache at times. Windier weather. Off by 5. Policeman, boy & ass for roba. ― After the height of the town ― a gorge, & little valley very pretty. Στραπόδι [Strapodi]. Immensely picturesque peasantry ― carpets & rainbow-bags: red caps ― brown capotes ― scarlet belts ― green or red bordered jackets &c. Women mostly in red ― w. handkerchiefs & petticoats. ― Buildings remind me of Beÿrout or Sicily. ― Campaniles ― very white & pretty. At 6.15. we open on to the plain of Λιϐάδι [Livadi] ― green corn ― smiling, Sicilian-wise, Hill of Ἀυλείμονα [Avlemonas] visible to the East. Beautiful groupes of peasantry, & all salute. Lots of little villages ― flat-topped. Beautiful little plain! Large bridge of Κατούνι [Katouni].
Still on high ground ― good broad road. Maltese-looking villages, but more scattered, & with high white Campanili. Corn. Olives. Ever a pleasant breeze, not to say ― wind. ― At 7.30 ― ἁφίσαμεν [we left] the road to Potamo, ― & strike into a narrow road to the left. The way collapses, resolving itself into a narrow lane, stony & between walls ― moreover ― there were cows, ― to G.’s horror, ― & as they would do only one of 2 things, run back, or run at us, we had to sit on the walls, till the milky mothers passed. The day is warm & misty as it wears on: clouds hang on the hills, so one sees nil. (All reminds me of Sicily ― the high cloudy land of Noto.) More milky mothers in the narrow lanes, ― φοϐούνται [they’re afraid] ― but their fears are a bore. Φαίνεται Μυλοπόταμος [Milopotamos appears] ― a pleasant white village compact & sparkling among fields of thin corn, & meagre olives. Ἐντρέπομαι νὰ τὰς λέγω ― Ἐλαιές ― [“I’m ashamed to call them olives”] says George.
At 8.30 we get to the village, & I draw a bit of a scrap. ― A civil man comes & asks me to go into his house, close by, so I go, ― not knowing where else to go to. Civil man shews me carpets, & I prepare to leave luggage here, & am going out ― when lo! ― Bulwer. Potius aper [Nonsense Latin: “rather a boar”] ― but he means well, & besides, it can’t be helped. At 9.15, I go out with him, & find the village is close to a sort of Tivoli-like Rocky Gorge, full of fine vegetation ― walnut, fig, ϐελανίδι [oak] &c., & here I drew ― uncommodiously on a wall, ― till 10.15. I walked about, discoursing with some of the people. It seems, I have gone to a wrong, or anti-governo house. ― Nevertheless I return there, & lunch on cold fowl, bread & cheese, & Smyrna wine. Fogs & clouds have swallowed up all distance, & only once the Coast of Greece came out dimly . . .
Finally we left Μυλοπόταμος at noon. ― Long sweeping Maltese-like lines ― fog continually. 12.30 ― up a long ― low ― hill. . . . Drew: about 1.30. ― looking over a plain dotted with villages ― flat & long. The hills of S. Nicólo beyond. At 2 the wind was more disgustical than ever, & I crosser. We go along the high road now: & at times I stop to write notes. At 2.15. Bulwer got on his horse & turned back. I am really vexed at my inability to adapt myself to times, persons, & things; for, however I may be bored, he has been particularly kind in arranging matters for me; getting food, &c. &c., &c. ―
2.30. I sit on a wall & snort. 2.45. going on slowly, & nearer to Ποταμό ― a large boxy village standing high on high ground ― not to say a hill, overlooking a wall ― “all so full of bread,” ― as George says “the muchness of corn astonishes the eye.” But ― o! ― o! ― o! ― the wind!!! ― this dreadful wind! ― all bedusting & bedimming all distance. At 3. reach the Προεστώς’ [village leader’s] house ― large cold room ― apparently clean. Προεστώς out. ― Daughter very tall. Mother vastly taller ― a giantess. ― like Lady Eastlake on a ladder. (“Vi piacerebbe,” said I the next day to G. ― “se Τατιανή [Tatiani, Giorgio’s wife] era così alta?” ― “La taglierei subito gli piedi.” Ἣθελα κόψει εὐθὺς τὰ ποδάρια.”) [“I’d cut her feet off straightaway”].
This North wind bores me horribly, & now comes the neuralgic toothache. (Τράïστον [Traiston: although Lear elsewhere calls it by the more usual term “niaka”] ― they call the strange long sack ― carpet-made ― the women use to carry their children in here.) Looking down towards the hills [word cancelled] plain of S. Nicolo ― ancient Cythæra, ― there is a sort of Greek sentiment in the long lines & clear drawing, & had the weather allowed, many beautiful bits might have been gathered by the way. The people hereabouts are immensely civil & courteous, all the women bowing & speaking, ― an unusual matter. They bring me 2 sorts of wine, Κρήτικον & Τζεριγιότικον [Cretan and Cerigot], the last white & undrinkable, the former decently good. At 4, I go out again, with G., & a man who is to take me tomorrow to Καραϐὰ [Karava]: ― and I reach a point whence the Cythærean Hills & also Capo Malea are well seen, the sky being now clearer. But it is awful cold.
Growing weary, I get a basin, & wash in the room I am to sleep in, which is awfully full of wind, there being an unglazed window-hole & a door ― “all open to the sky” [Tennyson, “The Dying Swan”. It is now 6.10. & I must get them to bring a Nutensil. This scenery is like parts of Apulia ― seen as it is from so high a point: ― long rolling undulating ― long-drawn-out lines ― gray with rock, or freckled with patches of Πρινάρι. Alack! for the house of the Προεστώς of Ποταμό εἰς Τζέριγο [village leader of Potamos in Cerigo]!! ― How shall I sleep in this room for 2 nights? The big man has hung up 2 sheets over the windy door, & possibly an ounce of flea powder may procure a little sleep, ― ὅμως, ὄχι διὰ ἓξ ὥρας [but not for six hours]. ― Meanwhile I dine ― so to speak, ― some eggs τηγανισμένα [fried] & the rest of the fowl begun today: but alas! the wine is not good, and covereth not a multitude of sins, and those good but ἀνόητος [foolish] folk at the residency have put up heaps & heaps of dolci which I never touch. Of Marsala, howbeit, there is a bottle, some of which comforts me not a little. The wind is howling, though not in turret or tree [Tennyson,“The Sisters’ Shame”]. . . .
The room I am in is some 20 or 25 feet long ― or perhaps 30, & high in proportion: but what an anomaly, when compared with the other chambers! O Lord! 3 stately fat bugs have just walked half over the tablecloth ― tho’ I killed them with a fork: but if these things are done in the green tree what will they do in a dry [Luke 23:31]― δηλαδὴ, παραδείγματος χὰριν [that is, for example] ― if 3 bugs walk across your tablecloth how many will exercise on your sheets? I fear frightfully. Fleapowder is becoming useless, for I feel “Ζῶα” [creatures] all over me. B’s bottle of Marsala has I think saved my foolish life for a time. G. comes: it is 8. ― & preparations are made to stop up the bad window. Before 9 ― I go to bed. ― O! Bed? ― ! ― I am in it! & have already knocked off heaps of fleas. These people seem to me far more wild or semisavage than the Corfiots or any other of the Islanders. Queer enough it is to be at the North end of Cerigo, thus.
Thursday 21 May
Slept very tolerably: thanx to Flea-powder. Rose at 4. Off with G. & an extinct Πλοίαρχος [sea captain] before 5. Morning quite clear, Candia [i.e. Crete] visible ― but faint. We went north to the highest ground ― by long uncultivated tracts with rocky paths ― up to the hills overlooking the channel. Drew from 5.45 to 7.15. very calm & lovely ― though the mountains are not nearly so fine as those of Epirus. Peasants’ dress: babies in Carpet-bags. 7.15 ― we go on, ― ascending gradually always ― passing a few Damascus-like hovels ― the whole of the high table land of this mountain island becoming visible; near the top I was half inclined to draw that side, the S. West, but did not do so, knowing how much I should have to do farther on.
A few cottages stood alone, & several people ― of whom 2 came hastily & followed us, & when they reached us asked lots of questions. At the highest level, the shore slopes to the North & the view of Taÿgetus is fine ― as is that of Κυθαίρα [ancient Kythira] ― foreground a wild waste of green herbs ― σχίνος, πρινάρι, [lentisk, holm oak] Cistus in gt. abundance, ― the small thorn-cushion Εὐφόρϐια [Euphorbia], a bright small plentiful St. John’s wort, Thyme, Squills, Salvia, Arbutus, heath & wild Cypress. But these, the flowers at least, were in greater plenty as we came down Eastward to Καραϐὰ [Karava] ― wh. is in a valley. Certainly these Greek mountain tops & sides are wondrous lovely, & the air is so here also. I drew, arriving at 8.30. till 9.
Drew Καραϐὰ till 9.45 ― & then began a κατήφερος ἀτακτότατος δρόμος [a very irregular downhill road] down slaty stairs, to one of the villages of Καραϐὰ: ― hotter & hotter & closer & closer, till the Oleanders were reached ― some of them in full bloom. After passing the queer brown flat-roofed houses low down in the narrow gorge ― water was grateful from a fountain freely flowing forth. Planes also were there; ― I was reminded of Calabrian days. We went to see the wonderful Orange-tree bearing 15,000 oranges ― but found it nowise remarkable. Rested & wrote till 10.30, below the Planes in this deep ravine garden. Half way up the other side, we met the Προεστώς, with a lot of others, (bunches of southernwood & pinks they proffered,) & so we wound up to near the town ― but turned into a ― or the ― priest-διδάσκαλος’s [teacher’s] house, where I feared to find fleas, but was agreeably surprised to see a nice clean room. Not but that it was soon filled with observers ― among others, a sub-Deputato from Α. Πελαγία [Aghia Pelagia], who spoke English, asked continual questions, & was a bore wholly. Limonata ― & now it is 11.15. ―Then Lunch, ἔτζι κ’ ἔτζι [so-so], ― wing & leg of cold fowl ― old lettuce ― & 2 “biled eggs”: but the wine was ἀνυπόφορος [unbearable] & detestable. There was also some Ricotta, but I ate little, as cold water doth not digest food. It is now 12. The violent sea wind has set in & the Παπάς Δανιέλλος has gone away. A clean little room ― full of pictures: one of the Emperor of Russia; one of heaven & hell, with a beautiful Devil whose tail ends in a Bell.
1 P.M. ― The heat of the room & the bore of flies cause me to open the door. Wind again! 1.5 ― We go― taking leave of the Παπὰς Δανιέλλος & his clean little house . . . the Προεστώς accompanied me some way, & gave me 2 oranges at parting. The Sotto Deputy shouted ― “good-bye!” “safe home!” “good return” ― &c. &c. A long pull up, & at 2 we rest, not yet nearly at top. Below ― far below ― some 50 or 60 ships are about Capo Malea, & all the landscape is yellow from ripening corn ― pale dove-tawny. At 3, ― we are going on still over these endless Hebron Dead Sea hills: fogs ahead ― rolling up from the N. West. A more stony lot of undulations cannot be seen. Larx however, enliven it by singing. Got to the Προεστώς ’s house by 4 ― & in spite of a high wind drew on the terrace till 5. What tall women these Potamites are!
It is now 5.30 ― & I am cleaned & washed as far as possible, & am to have the 2 carpets & a bag ― brought for inspection last night, ― for 16 [Spanish dollars?]― & a bag for one ― 17 in all. Dawdled up & down till the sun went down (σοῦ χρεία τοῦτο; [do you need this?] ― said my host, asking me for a glass.) ― The high misty Maiella Mountains [in Abruzzo] come back to me in memory. At 6.30. or 7. came George with soup, (rice & chicken), & afterwards a Noverboiled fowl, a portion of wh. with cheese & bread & Marsala ― thanx to Bulwer, made my dinner, & sufficiently good. ― (Bulwer has sent 2 bottles of Smyrna wine, fresh bread, & cheese, today: very kindly & pleasant.) At 7.45 ― I read journals of the past . . .
![Kythera, scrap [23 May].](https://impro.usercontent.one/appid/oneComWsb/domain/rowenafowler.com/media/rowenafowler.com/onewebmedia/Cerigo%20scrap%20Kythaira.jpg?etag=%22d214-67ea9507%22&sourceContentType=image%2Fjpeg&quality=85 "Kythera, scrap [23 May].")
From Lear’s Diary 22–25 May 1863
Friday 22 May
Rose before 4. Fuss about carpet-sack, & had to unpack.
Off by 4.45. ― Ugliness of Potamo: how like Sicilian villages. Innumerable chapels & churches: green fields of corn ―: cheerful but Sicilian. Long piece of high road, leave it at Roganatica. Saracenic bits of building. Dive into dells, & ascend hills. 6.20. (The above are notes written in walking.) ― The sack which the Προεστώς said I was to have for 4/4, they announced this morning not to be for sale at all: so I had to unpack all one of my saddlebags at starting, to my disgust. G. also was odious & cross. Endeavoured to make Andrea take a dollar, but in vain. Set off with G. ― the boy, & the ass, & a servant of the Προεστώς ― leaving the filthy house with pleasure. The town of Ποταμῶ is awfully ugly, & undrawable from below. We kept the main road to Ρωγανάτικα [Roganatika: present-day Aroniadika], & then came by steep breakneck narrow lanes ― (having passed through the above named village) & crooked places to Μιτάτα [Mitata] about 7.
The whole journey today has been very Sicilian ― wide expanses of stony gray green hills, ― & at Μιτάτα, great rocks & a chasm, which I drew from above the village. Arriving there, the Πρωεστός & others come & meet me, & I sit down on the edge of the plateau of rock on & from the slope of which Mitata is built ― a town of flat-topped houses one below the other down to the valley beneath. From the upper part, the view of all old Cythæra is very grand, so I drew twice ― & a 3rd time on the roof of the Προεστώς’s house till 9.15. when I went in doors to eat ― but the Eggs were uncooked & I had no appetite ― so I am off now ― at 9.30. This place is the grandest I have seen in Cerigo. The Mass of olive & Orange Gardens below, & the forms of the Cythærean hills beyond are superb. But, after 8 or 9 there is no light & shade, & toil is useless. Ὅ Προεστώς & 2 more came out with me, to below the village.
Very lovely bits of garden, with an immensity of Myrtle growing everywhere. The Πρωεστός came on after the others left ― & we had turned away from the valley leading towards S. Nicolo or Cythæra, ― & he accompanied me thro’ small paths & roads not easy to find ― leading thro’ many little groups of very poor huts or houses ― until we reached the main road at 11. Here I tried to draw again, but failed, as there is no relief of light & shade, & one can’t make out the lines. But I can’t help wishing I had seen Cythæra nearer. 11 – 11.45 ― a weary hot road: one’s only comfort being the Larks.
Endless walls on all sides. At 12 we reach Φράτζα [Greek Fratza: Italian Frazza], where are women washing at a large fountain ― & one says, “Ἀπὸ που κοπιάσητε;” [“Where have you come from?”] to which I reply, “Ἀπὸ τὸ Φεγγάρι” [“From the moon”], which greatly disgusts her. (G. says I ought to have said “Ἀπ’ οπίσω τὸν Ἣλιον” [“From the back of the sun”]). Frazza is building a very big church, & overlooks Λιϐάδι [Livadi], which its greenness is refreshing after the meagre, wally nature of the last distretto [district] passed. After a while, weariness prevails, & I call a halt, under a wild pear tree, & send the Ass-boy up to a house for water. Whereupon we all eat cold rice pudding & drink wine & water. G. says Mrs. Προεστώς of Ποταμῶ drinks amain, & is always fuddly ― wh. accounts for the state of the house of that Giantess. What huge tall fine women there were at that place! ― I find I have left my new 3 bladed knife at the last sketching place, ― a bore. It is 1.15.
At 2.15 ― we are far on in Λιϐάδι & the 14 arched bridge is before me. The white flat houses, ― very green fields ― & the trim bridge, make a composite of England & Malta pretty to see, but of little use to draw. (This morning I found 9 bugs & 14 fleas dead in my bed at Ποταμῶ! so much for Flea-powder.) ― After various stoppidges, we reached the town of Tzerigo about 3.15 ― when, sending the boy on, G. & I went to the hill opposite to the Castle, but the wind blew too hard for me to draw:― so I came to the Castle about 4.30.
Soon saw Massey & Bulwer, most kind fellows both, ― & shewed them my drawings. It is now 5.45. & I am washed & dressed. ― B. had dined, so he had tea while I dinner had. Nothing can be kinder or more thoughtful than he is, & the time went by pleasantly ― especially with good fish, hash mutton, & Marsala. Afterwards, Massey came: ― how different are English & Irish! ―& these 2 are good Παραδείγματα [examples] of each. Bed by 9. ― There are 4 if not 5 points of interest yet here ― yet I doubt my drawing them all. 1. The view from the South ― 2. that from the North ―3. cliffs ― 4. Αὐλείμωνα [Avlemonas], 5. Town from Fort. Vedremo [we shall see]. Toothache abounds.
Saturday 23 May
Rose at 4. “Work ― work ― work” [Thomas Hood, “The Song of the Shirt”]. Off before 5. (Hezekiah’s pool [Lear had visited Jerusalem in 1858]― & general Oriental look of houses.) Down by a steep path to a washing place & Cemetery, & then up towards the signal station, but finding no good views drew a “scrap” & went on to complete a drawing begun yesterday afternoon. After which, walked in search of the rox B. & M. speak of, but they are not drawable, though grand. The immense expanse of sea lies still & blue, ― clouds hiding Candia & Cerigotto [Crete and Antikythera]. ― Return. People are cutting all the σιτάρι [wheat] everywhere. It is 7.30. Dawdled up to & about the fortress, & indoors by 8. Got a Limonata, these being days of Luxury. B. taking medicine, cometh not to breakfast. ― Good bkft solo, done by 9.
At 9.30 went to Massey. (W.C. Shunammite chamber on wall.) [cf 2 Kings 4:8] ― & later saw Bulwer, who arranged that Διονύσιος the Pelisseman should go with me to a point near enough for me to see Κυθαῖρα [ancient Kythera], which I have made up my mind to see. ― So at 10 ― we two set off: ― awfully hot. (Giorgio I left to clean the carpets, as I knew I should have to walk harder than he would like.) At 11. turned the “corner” to Λιϐάδι ― cheerful green spot. House of Ἡγούμενος of Μυρτιδιώτισσα [Abbot of Myrtidiotissa]. Aloes by the roadside ― the only ones I have seen in this island, ― growing out of Σχίνος & Μυρτιὰ [lentisk & myrtle] hedges. Staid a bit & got some water a Μαγαζινάκι [small shop-cum-café] or road side “Pothouse”. Dionysius thoughtfully took a glass with him. Then crossed the big bridge of 14 arches, & there the good road ends. That which follows is execrable, over stony hideous undulations ― & it was 12 before the hills of Κυθαίρα were visible ― hard walking ― & on seeing the immense valley & hill I had to descend to, cross, & mount before I could reach the view of Αὐλείμωνα, ― my heart failed me, & I very nearly turned back. A good view of the harbour alone could be had from a church on a higher hill, ― but that would not include Παλαιόπολις [Palaiopolis] ―:― so at last ― never say die ― I decided to go on.
Down a steep hill ― the western wall of the valley ― & then at 12.30, a delightful βρύσις [spring] ― (though there were wasps) of clear good water, & Dionýsios having so cautiously taken a glass tumbler, the effect was delicious & pleasant. After 4 glasses, I began to cross the valley ― (which is not cultivated ―) & ascend the hill ― or eastern side. (Oleanders in full bloom.) By 1. I reached the top ― but, “upon my honor, Mrs. Brady” [see diary entry, Santa Maura 25 April] it was awful work. 15 minutes brought me to a place where all ancient Κυθαίρα was below me ― a most magnificent site: whether from the broad & long plain ― much of it corn & olive covered, ― or from the Harbour, or from the surrounding hills. Drew till 2.30. Something there is in these old sites which speaks of the past. The descent to the valley occupied 25 minutes quick walking, & 5 more went at the fountain: after which at 3 began the ascent, & I did the hardest bit in 20 minutes, but the longer ascent took 10 more, when I met Massey, who most kindly had come out to meet me. So we walked on, by that awful stony road, & by 4 reached the long bridge. Stopped for water & Lemonade at the “Inn”, & left it at 4.25: reaching the corner, or junction of the 2 roads by 4.35: ― & then, by sharp walking, ― home by 5.25. ― no slight walk ― altogether, but seeing & drawing Κυθαίρα was somewhat.
Lemonade: tub: & dressed, & thence dinner, at which B. sate eating next to nothing: I ― ashamed of appetite ate all ― & drank more. Later came Massey . . . Then, at 9.30. came to bed.
Sunday 24 May
Rose at 4. Packed & arranged drawings till 6. Read Mrs. Harvey’s Cruise of the Claymore [Annie Jane Harvey, Our Cruise in the Claymore, with a visit to Damascus and the Lebanon]. At 9. breakfast with Bulwer whom one likes more by seeing more of . . . “tried, but failed” to draw the town of Cerigo from the fort, from 9 to 11.30.
At 1. I am ready to go & lunch with Massey ― having just given a dollar & a half to Τεοδόρος, & half a dollar to the fat Παιδὶ [boy] ― both of whom bent down suddenly & kissed my hand. (The Cerigotto people say O, yes! for ὄχι [no] ― which comes thus ὄχι, ὄχιε, οχιές ― Ο yes! ―) At 1 lunched with the most amiable Massey ― than whom a simpler & nicer lad I never met. ― B. was also there. Pease & excellent bacon, he having vainly tried to get beans. A most pleasant meal, B. being very pleasant: a real kind fellow. It is now 3 ― & I believe we are to go out. Sorry the weather is cloudy, but I trust it may not play trix. (Massey very amiably gave me a little Greek book about Cerigo, & a patent water cup.) . . . we loitered about the Fort, looking down on that strange Maltese-Saracenic Romantic town, backed by its Palermo οr Pellegrino like hill, & rooted into its black Hezekiah’s pool.
At 5. we walked slowly down to the school, & round by the top of the town, returning by 6.15. At 7. came Massey to dinner, wh. was very good as usual, & certainly the kindness of Bulwer to a mere stranger & one out of his own position is remarkable & delightful. The same may be said of Massey: both of them are men such as one seldom lights on in out-of-the-way places. At 8.30. came Mr. Καλλονᾶ [Kallonas], the Postmaster, who, with B. & M. walked down with me to Καψάλι [Kapsali, the port]. The half moon gave a beautiful sombre light, but there is far more sea on than I like, & I hear them talking about the weather more or less doubtfully.
Ὅμως [however], they seem to think the Zante Steamer may touch.
I was housed at the Deputato’s ― in a most comfortable small room. G. is at the Dogana. And B. & M. are gone up to the lonely Citadel. Bed at 10.
5XX [five seizures?]
Monday 25 May
alas for the Demon! [Lear’s word for his seizures] Whether these things are for good or evil, I know not.
During the night the wind & waves were by no means calm, so I rose at 3.30. And at 4 went out with George to the church above the Lighthouse. Considering what a swell there is insided the harbour, I am surprised to see the outer sea so quiet: ― yet, nevertheless it is vexatious to have so dull & semi-threatening a sky. Speriamo. [Let’s hope.] ― At 4.20 I go back to the Deputato’s & have coffee. At 5 again on the rocks above. ― 6 waiting still ― no signal ― west nor east. 7 ― ditto-ditto-ditto. 8 dittodittoditto. 8.30. No signal. ― wind increases. Deputy begins to fear that both vessels have gone round by the straits. (Giovanni Κασιμάτη, Deputy of Καψάλι.) 10. No signal. Weather suddenly clears ― wind changed. I have been lunching with the above named cove, & his elder brother, & the wife of the Deputy. They are very kindly & civil ― tho’ the elder is a distinct bore.
Slept till 11. No signal yet. ― Immediately afterwards the East boat is signalled, & we embark ― Deputy ― G. & I. with roba & 4 marinai [sailors].
No small suffering in a blue but rolling sea before we get on board at 11.40 ― on board the Europa: & gladly I saw the faces of last week ― for indeed it was becoming an idée fixe that I must be another week here. At 11.45 ― we are off ― bright sun & rolling blue sea, too much to be pleasant. At 12.30 we are leaving the S.W. end of Cerigo.
The outward aspic of the island, it must be owned, is werry dry & bony: no green, & no houses being visible. At 1 ― we roll. The “Egg” rock [an islet just off the harbour of Kapsali] is nearly invisible & the long line of Cerigo is fading ― nor can Matapan [Cape Tainaro] be discerned ― for the seafogs over the high land at the North end of Cerigo obscure it ― though I once thought I saw Taÿgetos. 2. P.M. Matapan not yet passed: a sufficiency of rolling. 3 P.M. nearing Ματαπᾶν; go down to wash for dinner. 3.15 Ματαπᾶν passed. 3.30. Capo Grosso [in the South Mani]― fine outline & detail ― but too much movement to draw. Excitement of passing t’other Steamer ― the Celere, which left Syra [Syros] the same time as Europa, but cut across north of Cerigo. We also met the Cephalonia & Zante boat about the same time. 4. dinner ― very good & pleasant ― barring rolling. 4.30. dinner over. 5.30. rolling sea, but fine everywhere. Talk with English gentleman come from Constantinople. 5.45. 6 hours Hong Root [en route]. The Evening is lovely to look at, & the Greek Mountains would be so if they were more visible, but the swell of the sea impedes, confusing. 6.45. 7 hours out. (But really it is 7.45.) [because of local time changes] & in about 8 hours more ― or 9 ― we ought to be at Zante. At 8. (9) we took tay, but I am stupid with rolling & noise: so at 9 ― i.e. 10 ― bed.
Costume sketches
![Cerigo scrap [18 or 19 May 1863] and niaka from Cerigo 1940.](https://impro.usercontent.one/appid/oneComWsb/domain/rowenafowler.com/media/rowenafowler.com/onewebmedia/Cerigo%20scrap%20and%20Niaka.jpg?etag=%221d419-68bedf08%22&sourceContentType=image%2Fjpeg&quality=85 "Cerigo scrap [18 or 19 May 1863] and niaka from Cerigo 1940.")
Editor’s Note
Lear’s diary from 1858 onwards is extant and is now in the Houghton Libary at Harvard. I have followed his spelling and his version of place names, and kept his punctuation―which is fairly informal―with copious use of dashes. I have however introduced paragraph spacing for ease of reading. Square brackets indicate an explanatory note or editorial interpolation.
I should like to thank Rose Little for her help and advice with this webpage.